| Quiet,
unassuming, shy, yet quick to smile and jest, Jean-Marc
Millot has the appearance of a young vigneron (or
winemaker) from earlier
times. His hands are stained and gnarled by working with
the vines, his cheeks bright rosy and complexion clear
from many days in the wintry and spring-chill air.
He
began estate bottling at the domaine in 1990, working
the six hectares of vines originally purchased by his
grandparents after World War II. He added another 1.4
hectares when his wife inherited her share of her family's
estate, and today he will tell you he has enough property:
"more than eight hectares is too much for one man
to work alone".
To
call Jean-Marc a traditionalist would be to understate
his commitment to working the land and making his
wines
by hand. Artisanal is perhaps the best description,
but neo-Luddite would not be inappropriate. Work
in
the vineyards is done by hand, no tractors to help
him
till the soil, no pneumatic sécateurs (or
shears) to
help with the pruning or harvest. The vines are tended
organically
without pesticides or fertilizers, and the chais (or
cellar) shows no signs of pumps, gadgets, or fancy
presses. The grape
bunches are destemmed by a mechanical, not electric,
device which is still turned by hand. Following the
alcoholic fermentation, which includes the ancient
pigeage method
of Jean-Marc lowering himself into the vat to break
up the cap, the wines are drained off by gravity
to oak barrels for their malolactic fermentation
and aging. They are tasted regularly but racked only
once (just prior to being bottled), and corked by
hand, cask by individual cask. The grand crus generally
see 100% new oak
for
up to 15 months, while the premier cru and village
wines have between 20-30% new oak barrels. The Bourgogne
Rouge, from a 55-year-old parcel of vines just below
the quarry in Comblanchien, sees only older barrels
during its year-long élevage (or aging).
With
yields ranging on average from 25 to 32 hectoliters
per hectare, the wines are rarely anything but profound.
Deeply colored, with scents of dark, ripe, black fruits
and hints of something wild and animal, almost gamey,
Millot's wines possess an extraordinary depth of flavor
combined with a rich, viscous texture, powerful structure,
and tremendous length in the finish. They are wines
of startling intensity which drink rich and powerful
when young and promise a long future of elegant enjoyment.
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